Fashion never stands still — and right now, it’s moving fast. According to the Business of Fashion–McKinsey State of Fashion Executive Survey, “challenging” was the word most often used by industry leaders to sum up 2025. Brands are juggling everything from rising tariffs and inflation to the growing influence of AI, while the pandemic-era slowdown feels firmly in the rear-view mirror. Looking ahead to spring/summer 2026, the pace shows no signs of easing: the season saw at least 15 creative director debuts across the global fashion capitals, as the industry continues its ongoing game of musical chairs.

Louise Trotter’s first outing for Bottega Veneta quickly became the talking point of Milan Fashion Week in September. Her approach leaned into rich, touchable fabrics, nodding to the house’s handwoven, “algorithm-proof” identity established under Matthieu Blazy. The collection’s take on elevated everyday luxury was summed up by a swirling, flame-toned jumper — crafted from recycled fibreglass that wouldn’t look out of place in an art installation — worn with crisp white trousers and sporty pumps. “It has the feeling of fur and moves like glass,” Trotter said of the fabric. Fashion you can really feel.

Literary Chic

It’s been 34 years since Donna Tartt’s The Secret History topped bestseller lists and gave rise to the whole “dark academia” mood. While the aesthetic had a big revival in the early 2020s, spring/summer 2026 took things in a lighter, more relaxed direction fashion-wise. From Celine to Tory Burch, designers leaned into a clever, considered approach to everyday dressing — practical, but still full of personality. At Chanel, Matthieu Blazy refreshed the house signatures with tweed twinsets that felt polished without being stuffy, styled with layered necklaces and fine knits. Elsewhere, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons leaned into a more uniform-inspired look, pairing clean A-line skirts and knitted polos in deep burgundy, navy and green with knotted silk neck scarves.

Fashion With Feeling

Matthieu Blazy’s first show for Chanel was a total feel-good moment. Staged beneath a dreamy solar system set inside the Grand Palais, the collection put a fresh spin on the house’s classic bouclé and went big on texture — including the now much-talked-about “piña colada” skirt, worn by Awar Odhiang with a silk T-shirt in the finale. Chanel wasn’t alone in leaning into touchable design this season either, with Bottega Veneta, Dries Van Noten, Loewe and Alaïa all playing with rich textures and bold, vibrant colour palettes.